Ketzer meets Old Gans!

Here’s the paint scheme I am going for, like my Gans in red primer with a snow camosplinter pattern. It’s not meant to be a soft white-wash as such but more of a dedicated paint finish so I weather and treat it quite differently.

So far you can see the Gaia Notes EVO Red Primer paint, 2 light coats and then I usedTamiya masking tape to set up the pattern which I again laid down with a brush usingGaia Notes “Interior Color”, an ivory off-white.

Next I’ve used some 3M foam backed sandpaper to smooth down the white and blend in the ridges that formed along the tape. You can see that the EVO primer might not be quite as tough as regular surfacer and I’ve brought the test shot grey plastic up in quite a few places. It’s actually a nice effect and although my first idea was to quickly re-paint the red, I might leave the grey and incorporate it into the chipping stage for something new and different.

Regarding preparing the Ketzer for painting, I haven’t modified the kit in any way at all after making it stock as per the instructions. I’ve removed the pilot -snaps out – and all clear parts -again, they just pop out- and then used the poly caps to pull the suit apart for ease of painting. One note of caution, don’t prise the legs apart by having it do the spits because you will torque the hip joints and snap them, pull straight back in theopposite direction to how you put them on.

Whilst each part is drying I attach them to the clips on a Gunze “Cat Hands” stand, any clips will do of course. By the time I’ve made one round on the suit, I can go back to the first piece and do touch ups. By the 3rd quick round I’m done, easy!

At stages when I want to “mask” the interior, I put a clean tissue inside. Perfect fit and so easy!

One more thing, you can actually start painting the interior from here and reach pretty much everywhere visible. Paint the dark grey background color – my favourite- first and then the headrest next. I’ve used Vallejo “Leather”. If you paint the chair back, seat and headrest before mating the torso halves, it’s even easier as you only need to paint the easily reached interior at the end – that’s how I did the Gustav. I highly recommend keeping all your processes simple as possible so that you can see your progress each time you spend even just an hour at your hobby bench. It will keep your motivation high and the momentum you pick up will keep you moving forward. I’m the same as most people, if I start over complicating things it’s the fastest way for me to lose interest and motivation and the project only get’s looked at with a sign as it moves further back on the shelf of shame and dust! :D

Cheers,

Linc

WAVE Ketzer!

WAVE’s brand new tooling of the 1/20 scale Strahl Night Fighting suit, code named “Ketzer” has just been released and wow, it’s fantastic. Design, kit fit and overall layout make this perhaps the best Ma.K release so far.

The retail kit comes in a very nice, light sand color, instructions and a decal set in the box seen in the background of the photo. I’ll make and show that one next, for now here is a Test Shot that I made a few months ago in case it was needed for the recent All Japan Model Show. It wasn’t, so I am going to paint it up!

For something a little different, I am going to “prime” and base it in one step with one of the new excellent “EVO Surfacer” paints from Gaia Notes. It’s surfacer and paint color all in one and here I am using Oxide Red Primer which I am sure all modellers are familiar with, an excellent color to start off your Axis armor with or in this case, Strahl Power suits!

Thanks for looking and apologies for the break in updates, I have a bunch to catch up on and you’ll see that I’ve been quite busy. ^^

Cheers,

Linc

Ma.K in SF3D “Super Ball” Part 2

Just back from a great trip to Hobby Show Korea 2011 (more on that soon) and now finishing up some projects.

My Super Ball is almost done, very happy with this and it’s been quite refreshing to keep it nice and simple.

After sealing the decals with a couple of thin shots of Mr. Super Clear Satin I decided to do some localised filtering instead of an overall wash as I am aiming for a cleaner style than a ground suit. Here I am adding thin filters made from Humbrol Paints mixed with Tamiya Enamel Thinner. Very diluted and with just a damp brush.

Straight over the filters I’ve added some chipping with VMC Dark Camo Brown and VMC Off-White. The joint covers are painted with Panzer Aces “Dark Rubber” and the contrasting panel was done in VMC Cavalry Red.

Mr. Color “Burnt Iron” for the leg pipes and drybrushed onto the rocket engine bells.

Tamiya Enamel “Smoke” for wet joints and some streaks, fuel spills.

Some streaks, fuel spills added with Daler Rowney Inks, diluted with water. I replaced one sensor bump with a really cool lens from Greif.

Thanks for looking, gallery photos up shortly!

Linc

Ma.K in SF3D “Super Ball” Part 1

Ma.K in SF3D S.A.F.S. Space Type 2C “Super Ball”, a Limited Edition 1/20 scale construction kit produced via a collaboration of WAVE Models and Post Hobby, the retail arm of Hobby Japan publications.

The kit was only available  through Post Hobby here in Japan, either through their physical stores or via their online store, so I helped coordinate with some helpful friends on each continent and we succeeded into putting the kit into the hands of 50+ happy modellers all across the world!

Lovely kit as always from WAVE, goes together very nicely. The rear of the Super Ball is the same as the Snake Eye and required a little care and putty as it’s a very complicated shape and there are 3 seam lines going together there. You can see the seams I’ve needed to smooth over with green putty in them by “Finishers”, a local brand here in Japan.

Next I’ve both masked and primed the PE joints and hoses with Hasegawa’s Masking Liquid which does both at the same time. You can take it off at the end if you want the bare PE as I have to do with demo kits but you can also paint over it which I may do this time. Good stuff, both thins and cleans up in water!

Spray Cans for a good base – white is tough so a head start on good opacity is never a bad idea. You could just as easily airbrush this step or use any combination so long as you hit your desired look. I love this approach because I can have the model prepped to work on in 20 minutes or less. Zing! Gloss Black, Zapp! Gloss Off-White.

Base colors – I’m going for a Update Classic with this one. The yellow’d off-white is called “Anti Flash White” in SF3D lore and it was based on both the NASA white space exploration vehicles and the off-white of the WWII Zero fighter. To get the white looking right with the early 1980′s photography, Kow Yokoyama Sensei shifted his white to this yellow’d version for the props to read correctly and the color has stuck with us now 30 years later. I’ve used Gaia Notes excellent Anti-Flash white for the main body parts but to both update the looks and keep the yellow reading yellow, I’ve used a highlighting technique known as “Panelling”, well that’s what I believe it to be called”, and put pure white gloss panels into increase the visual interest and allow my modern digital equipment to read all the colors correctly. It also looks pretty cool which is always something to go after!!

Rocket nozzles are based in Mr. Color Flat Black with all other details and armor sections on the inside painted with Mr. Color RLM66 Black Grey – a slightly purple tinged Grey that goes very well with the Anti-Flash White (yellow).

Brushes – those are the actual brushes I used. A Citadel Large brush for the first applications and then the larger and small Tamiya High Finish brushes on appropriately sized areas with a little more thinner to smooth the surface.

Lastly decals, decals and more decals! Quite a few and thanks to the glossy finish I didn’t need to further prepare the surface and they went straight on with no silvering at all. Took 2 sittings to get them all on there, perhaps this version and the Snake Eye have the most decals of all SF3D and Ma.K kits!

Hope you like it and if you are looking for a good looking, simple and classic scheme, please go ahead and try this one out.

Cheers,

Linc

Super Ball

The new Limited Edition Super Ball kit, a 1/20 scale construction kit only available directly through Hobby Japan.

Very quick build, no hiccups except that I carelessly broke the arm cable but it’s easy to replace.

Next I’ll clean up the seams and put up some close ups of the details.

Thanks,

Linc